Pillion's-eye View - Maximum City

It’s a Saturday morning. Mostly I like to sleep late, but this saturday is different. I’m quite excited about our motorbike ride. My husband and I have been enjoying our bike trips into town on his ‘Fatboy Special.’ I can’t wax eloquent enough about the stability and the comfort of the bike. I generally get to relax and hum along my favourite tunes without having to worry about maintaining my balance. The hustle-bustle of the city passes by while I sit, reclined against the backrest, looking around and enjoying ... just being in the moment.

One tends to notice a lot of interesting things on these rides, specially, as a pillion.  Like, I’ve noticed that men love machines. I know how clichéd it sounds but they really DO. Even a little boy of two will keep turning his neck to look at the bike till he can no longer see it. It amazes me to see that twinkle in their eyes when they hear the rumble of the Harley or see that chrome glint in the sunlight.

I can also feel the subtle difference in the air as we go from one suburb to another. Funnily people tend to dress differently too in the span of 13/14 kms.

Image Courtesy : Google Map

Well, today’s ride is not about people or nip in the air. It is about architecture. On previous rides I felt that I was noticing architecture more closely as I rode along. There were building that never caught my attention earlier. My vision was limited to only what I saw through car windows, which was mostly the ground floors and shops and people going about their business. But now I could see the buildings in totality. Location, surrounding buildings, detailing etc. So I decided to click some pictures of the architecture on the GO!

This picture blogpost is an architectural account of the journey from Powai, a suburb of Mumbai to Pedder road via Colaba, on a Harley, armed with an iPhone5. It doesn’t showcase Mumbai architecture. There aren’t many famous or historically/socially important buildings. It is a one-sided (literally, as I took pictures of only west side of the road, East was backlit). J

Here we go! We set out at 7am. Winter sun in Mumbai is just rising behind the neo-classical buildings of Powai, designed ironically for a modern, hip community. I love the harmonious cream colour, sameness of the facade and clean surroundings.

Leave behind the neo-classical buildings of 'Hiranandani Gardens' and 'architecturally' there is very little happening on this road.  It's pretty much open area all the way to Sion. There are many nondescript buildings along the way, there's no particular style followed and to make matters worse low cost, bare, Slum Redevelopment Program buildings pop out of nowhere.

Once you pass the 'green' Chembur suburb and descend the Sion flyover you'll see smaller buildings which catch your attention as they have some character. These buildings were built in the 50s through the 70s. This is where Mumbai started to grow beyond the seven islands. This used to be a quiet neighborhood with shaded by lanes, neatly planned. The first generation that grew up here has wonderful stories to share of the fun they had before this road became highly populated and polluted.

Sion 

Riding over Dadar flyover one can see many modern structures in the distance. This is the Upper Worli business district. It boasts of some high flying names in the industry. Metal and glass facades vie with each other to prove their technological prowess. The higher the better, the shinier the mightier.

A closer look at the buildings in Dadar and Parel would tell you stories of the era gone by. Flourishing mills in the early 1900s accelerated residential development here. Buildings are modest and have a distinct vernacular character. Sloping roofs, balconies overlooking the streets, closely packed buildings with huge courtyards in the center. These condominiums called 'chawls' were the hub of a thriving mill workers' community once upon a time. A true representative of the spirit of Mumbai where people from all walks of life come together to live and work in harmony. These building have gone through numerous tenants and their renovation but remain an excellent example as the palimpsest of Mumbai's chawl architecture.

Indo-islamic influence. Check out  arch with floral pilaster work

Unique use of Malad stone for cladding. Probably built in the late 1800s or early 1900s,
it has survived the ravages of renovations.

Look closely at these buildings. Behind their shabby appearance is the architectural heritage of Mumbai. Behind hoardings and hanging clothes you may discover delicately made wooden louvres, skillfully executed grill or a beautiful paneled window.

As one moves closer to South Bombay, one gets to see an amalgamation of various architectural styles such as Art Deco, Gothic, Indo-Saracenic and Portuguese. Mumbai, apparently has the largest number of Art Deco buildings after Miami. Art Deco style uses geometric forms arranged in symmetrical and utilitarian fashion. Curved metal windows, murals in relief work, geometric grill designs are prominent features one would get to see in the Art Deco buildings of Mumbai.

Art Deco in Mumbai boasts of using varied material. In this picture you
can see railings in mild steel and concrete too.

Check out symmetry, different treatment of windows on different floors and
projected balcony to break monotony of the roofline and the facade.

Derelict Cotton Mill

Go past the ruins of cotton mills in Byculla to see beautiful Gloria Church built in English Gothic style. An impressive structure in black stone with turrets reaching out to the sky. Imposing yet delicate... a delight to watch. I look forward to seeing this structure every time I pass this road. I particularly like the combination of white plaster with black stone, it creates a striking contrast.



And just like that on the right hand side after the Gloria church you get a glimpse of the magnificient tower of the Sir Cowasjee Jehangir buidling built in neo-gothic style. Don't forget to see that beautiful projected balcony on this tower unfortunately hidden by the trees in this picture.

When the Mohammed Ali road flyover was built it not only facilitated quick entry to south bombay but also brought to notice buildings rich with architectural detailing. Earlier, it was impossible to notice them trying to navigate through Mohammed Ali road traffic. Now much to the indignation of the residents we can enjoy the architectural elements at an eye level.

On both sides of this flyover, you will see Deco buildings and beutiful mosques, all packed close to each other but distinct in their own style. One get's a glimpse of the lanes of Mohammed Ali road bustling with traders. It is specially enchanting during the month of Ramzan when these lanes bathe in festive lights.

The Deco style of Mumbai has a special name of its own. It's called the Deco-Saracenic style. It is greatly influenced by hindu and Islamic architecture. You will see carvings, zharokhas, decorative brackets, arches all incorporated in this style with different materials. The South Mumbai has many buildings designed in Art Deco or Deco-Saracenic style.

It is important to note that this style was adopted in the late 1800s and the early 1900s. This was a wonderful deviation from the various Gothic styles followed by the British to design buildings in Mumbai. It marked an end of colonial era and the beginning of a new chapter in the history of India. New ideas, materials and freedom from complicated detailing brought in a fresh approach to the buildings. Unfortunately we lost this plot somewhere along the road and started constructing buildings without any thought to design or aesthetics. Construction of buildings between the Art Deco and the modern buildings designed by thinking architects like Charles Correa is just another forgettable chapter in the history of Mumbai architecture.

Anyway! zoom past Mohammed Ali flyover to enter the commercial district of Mumbai. Enjoy buildings made in various Gothic styles. Again called as 'Bombay Gothic' or Indo-Saracenic for the adaptation of this style with Indian and Islamic architectural elements such as onion domes, scalloped and pointed arches etc. The British liked to adapt their engineering skills with the exotic elements in Indian and Indo-Islamic architecture. It appealed to Indians but the scale was always grand to emphasize mightiness of the British empire.

Times of India and the Municipal Corporation offices in Neo-Gothic and Indo-Saracenic styles.

The Municipal Corporation building

The General Post Office Building

General Postal Office, Mumbai. Zip code 400 001. Beautiful example of Indo-Saracenic architecture. Enjoy the onion domes and minarets in silhouette.

Here's another silhouette of one of the many statues that dot the roundabouts in South Mumbai. A tradition we continued even after the British left.

RBI building in Malad Stone - Bombay Deco
Clean lines and beautiful adaptation of corinthian columns

Horniman Circle 

Ride around the Horniman circle to see these buildings up close. There are six buildings in Gregorian architectural style. Here's an excellent example of how the international architectural styles were adapted to suit Indian climate. These buildings have a cool covered pathway to protect from the sultry Mumbai weather.

You'll also see St Thomas Cathedral, the first Anglican Church in Mumbai. The fort built to protect Mumbai in the early 1700s had a gate that opened near this church that's how this area got its name 'Churchgate'.  Probably the only building in Mumbai that displays 'flying buttresses' used to counter lateral forces in Gothic church architecture.

St Thomas Cathedral

Mumbai as everyone knows is a port town. Deep sea made it possible to dock big vessels close in this port. One of the earliest constructions was of the docks built in the Mazagaon area. We rode past this once-fashionable part of Mumbai. Many buildings in this area are marked as heritage buildings. Beyond these buildings is yet another world buzzing with activities.

Dockyard Road

Indo-Saracenic buildings near Regal Cinema

Deco detailing of Dhanraj Mahal and Indo-Saracenic elements of Majestic Amdar Niwas

The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel 

The Taj Palace hotel has a special place in our hearts. It's international appeal and more than that the romantic story of how Jamsetji Tata decided to build a hotel as a  sweet revenge to 'whites only' policy makes Indians swell in pride. The building is beautifully maintained in pristine condition. Here one can see influence of Indian and Islamic architecture prominently. Zharokha style windows, pointed and round arches, onion domes and domes with chhatris. This building looks beautiful at all times of the day.

These are lovely lanes behind the Taj Palace hotel.
At one time, mostly occupied by Parsis, they have a old world charm.

Cross the secretariat buildings and you come to the 'Manhattan' of Mumbai. A posh address in Mumbai. Modest looking NCPA building here fetches almost Rs 40 Cr per apartment (about $1600-1650/ SqFt). A promenade runs along the coastline for about 4-5 kms. Morning revelers, walkers, joggers are seen enjoying the gentle breeze and the winter sun.

This entire stretch has many Art Deco buildings. But mostly these buildings are ignored as the view across the bay is breathtaking.

Phew! When we set out, I didn't expect to learn anything. Mumbai architecture has gone through so many changes. Every ruler has left it's mark on the buildings constructed. As one travels from suburbs to South Mumbai, one can see how mumbai developed through 2 centuries and to think that we covered only a fraction of that. There are many more magnificent buildings and settlements in Mumbai that one can see through heritage walks or by just riding around like we did. I would like to end this post with two pictures.

The first one is a building designed by Charles Correa. In my mind this was the first building in Mumbai that broke the notion that highrise buildings have to be drab, practical or seriously boring. It made me feel that architecture was fun and not just bound by Floor Space Index or stuck in history.

Kanchanjunga building stands tall among many highrise buildings in Mumbai

After I clicked this picture my photo journey of Mumbai architecture on one Saturday morning came to a halt. Not because this is the best building in Mumbai but because this picture kind of shows the eclectic nature of Mumbai architecture in one shot. 

Here we have a glass facade building, a 'I-just-want-to-use-FSI building,' a Deco building with neo-classical features and an ostentatious building towering above all to show that Mumbai is ruled by the wealthy. Built by Perkins+Will, 'Antilia,' costing upward of $1 billion, the twenty-seven story, 400000-square foot skyscraper residence is arguably the costliest residential building- owned by a single person in Mumbai. Controversial yet commanding passers by to stop and look.

I loved this exercise. It made me think, research and I learnt new things. Hope you enjoy reading it as much as I enjoyed writing it.

Riding back home after a fantastic ride

Bibliography

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Architecture_of_Mumbai
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Art_Deco
http://ditikotecha.blogspot.in/2010/07/bombay-hidden-beauties-horniman-circle.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bombay_Dockyard
http://indiannavy.nic.in/print/263
http://www.indiaprofile.com/heritage/bombayarchitecture.htm